How to Draft a Coat Pattern
Drafting a coat pattern can be a challenging but rewarding task, whether you are a beginner or an experienced sewist. A well-drafted pattern ensures that your coat fits perfectly and looks stylish. In this article, we will guide you through the process of drafting a coat pattern, from gathering the necessary information to finalizing the pattern pieces.
Understanding the Basics
Before diving into the drafting process, it’s essential to understand the basic components of a coat pattern. These include the front and back pieces, the sleeves, the collar, the hem, and the lining. Familiarize yourself with these elements, as they will be crucial throughout the drafting process.
Collecting Measurements
The first step in drafting a coat pattern is to gather the necessary measurements. You will need to measure the following:
– Chest circumference
– Waist circumference
– Hip circumference
– Shoulder width
– Arm length
– Sleeve circumference
– Neck circumference
– Waist-to-hip ratio
These measurements will help you determine the size and style of your coat. Be sure to take accurate measurements, as they will directly affect the fit of your final garment.
Choosing a Style
Once you have your measurements, it’s time to choose a style for your coat. Consider the following factors:
– The occasion for which you will wear the coat
– The climate in which you will wear the coat
– Your personal style preferences
Popular coat styles include trench coats, pea coats, duffle coats, and wool coats. Choose a style that suits your needs and preferences.
Drafting the Front and Back Pieces
To draft the front and back pieces, start by drawing a rectangle on a piece of paper. The length of the rectangle should be equal to the total length of the coat, including the hem. The width of the rectangle should be equal to the chest circumference, plus any additional ease you want to add.
Next, divide the width of the rectangle into two equal parts, representing the shoulder width. Draw a diagonal line from the top of the rectangle to the midpoint of the bottom edge, creating the shoulder seam. From the midpoint, draw a horizontal line to the bottom edge, creating the side seam.
To add the armhole, measure the arm length and draw a curved line from the shoulder seam to the bottom edge, following the arm length. Repeat this process for the back piece, ensuring that the armhole is symmetrical.
Adding the Sleeves
To draft the sleeves, start by drawing a rectangle on a piece of paper. The length of the rectangle should be equal to the arm length, plus any additional ease you want to add. The width of the rectangle should be equal to the sleeve circumference, plus any additional ease.
Next, draw a diagonal line from the top of the rectangle to the midpoint of the bottom edge, creating the sleeve cap. From the midpoint, draw a horizontal line to the bottom edge, creating the sleeve hem.
Attach the sleeve to the front and back pieces by matching the side seams and the shoulder seams. Ensure that the sleeve cap aligns with the armhole.
Finalizing the Pattern
Once you have drafted the front, back, and sleeves, it’s time to finalize the pattern. Add seam allowances, notches, and any additional markings required for construction. Trace the pattern pieces onto another piece of paper or muslin, ensuring that they are accurate.
Before cutting into your fabric, test the pattern on a muslin or a piece of inexpensive fabric to ensure that the fit is correct. Make any necessary adjustments to the pattern pieces before proceeding with the final garment.
Conclusion
Drafting a coat pattern can be a complex process, but with patience and practice, you can create a custom coat that fits perfectly and reflects your personal style. By following these steps and understanding the basics of pattern drafting, you’ll be well on your way to creating a stunning coat that you’ll be proud to wear.
