How to Add Bust Darts to a Pattern
Adding bust darts to a pattern is a fundamental skill in pattern making and garment construction. Bust darts are used to add fullness to the bust area, ensuring a better fit and a more comfortable garment. Whether you are creating a dress, a blouse, or any other garment that requires a fitted bust, understanding how to add bust darts is essential. In this article, we will guide you through the process of adding bust darts to a pattern, step by step.
Step 1: Assess the Pattern
Before adding bust darts to your pattern, it is crucial to assess the existing pattern to determine if bust darts are needed. Check the bust measurement and compare it to the pattern’s bust measurement. If there is a significant difference, it is likely that bust darts will be necessary to achieve a proper fit.
Step 2: Mark the Dart Placement
Once you have determined that bust darts are needed, the next step is to mark the dart placement on the pattern. To do this, locate the bust point, which is typically marked on the pattern. The bust point is the highest point of the bust and is located at the center of the neckline. From the bust point, measure down to the desired dart placement on the side seam. This measurement is usually around 2 to 3 inches (5 to 7.5 cm) below the bust point, but it can vary depending on the style and the desired fit.
Step 3: Create the Dart Shape
With the dart placement marked, it’s time to create the dart shape. To do this, draw a straight line from the bust point to the marked dart placement on the side seam. Then, draw a diagonal line from the bust point to the bottom of the dart. This diagonal line should intersect with the side seam at the dart’s bottom point. Connect the two bottom points of the dart with a straight line to complete the dart shape.
Step 4: Cut the Dart Opening
To create the dart opening, cut along the straight line from the bust point to the bottom of the dart. Make sure to cut through both layers of the pattern to create a clean, open dart.
Step 5: Adjust the Dart Length
The length of the dart is an important factor in achieving a proper fit. To adjust the dart length, you can either add or subtract width from the dart’s sides. If the dart is too short, add width to the dart’s sides; if it’s too long, subtract width. Keep in mind that the dart should be wide enough to provide fullness without being overly bulky.
Step 6: Transfer Dart Notches
To ensure accurate dart placement during construction, transfer the dart notches to the fabric. Notches are small marks or snips made at the bottom of the dart and at the point where the dart intersects the side seam. These notches help align the dart during construction, making it easier to match the dart points and achieve a smooth, even finish.
Step 7: Sew the Dart
With the dart notches transferred, it’s time to sew the dart. Match the dart points and align the notches, then sew the dart together. Press the dart open to create a smooth finish.
By following these steps, you will be able to add bust darts to your pattern with confidence. Remember that practice makes perfect, so don’t be discouraged if your first attempts aren’t perfect. With time and experience, you will become skilled at adding bust darts and creating beautifully fitted garments.
