How to Draft a Two-Piece Sleeve Pattern
Drafting a two-piece sleeve pattern is an essential skill for any fashion designer or sewist looking to create custom garments. Two-piece sleeves, also known as “set-in” sleeves, offer a clean and tailored look, making them a popular choice for various garments, from blouses to dresses. In this article, we will guide you through the process of drafting a two-piece sleeve pattern, ensuring that your designs are both stylish and functional.
First, gather the necessary materials for drafting a two-piece sleeve pattern. You will need:
1. A ruler or measuring tape
2. Pattern paper or tracing paper
3. A pencil or pen
4. A ruler or straight edge
5. A French curve or curved ruler (optional)
Once you have your materials ready, follow these steps to draft a two-piece sleeve pattern:
1. Measure the Armhole Depth and Sleeve Cap Depth: Begin by measuring the depth of the armhole and the sleeve cap. These measurements will be crucial in determining the size of your sleeve pattern.
2. Draw the Sleeve Cap Shape: Using your ruler and French curve, draw the sleeve cap shape on your pattern paper. The sleeve cap should start at the shoulder seam and curve down towards the underarm. Make sure to include the desired amount of ease for the sleeve cap.
3. Add the Sleeve Curve: Connect the sleeve cap to the underarm with a smooth curve. This curve will ensure that the sleeve fits comfortably over the shoulder and arm.
4. Measure the Sleeve Length: Determine the desired sleeve length, from the shoulder seam to the hem. Mark this length on the sleeve pattern.
5. Draw the Sleeve Hem: Using your ruler, draw a straight line across the bottom of the sleeve pattern, representing the sleeve hem. This line should be parallel to the sleeve cap curve.
6. Add the Seam Allowance: Extend the sleeve cap curve and the sleeve hem line to add the seam allowance. This will give you the final sleeve pattern shape.
7. Adjust the Pattern for Fit: If necessary, adjust the sleeve pattern for fit by making alterations such as changing the sleeve cap depth, adjusting the sleeve curve, or adding width to the sleeve hem.
8. Cut Out the Sleeve Pattern: Once you are satisfied with the sleeve pattern, cut it out, leaving a small margin around the pattern for trimming and fitting.
9. Transfer the Sleeve Pattern to Your Garment Fabric: Lay your sleeve pattern on the garment fabric, ensuring that the grainline is aligned with the fabric’s selvage. Pin the pattern in place and trace the pattern onto the fabric.
10. Cut Out the Sleeves: Cut out the sleeves from the fabric, following the traced pattern.
Congratulations! You have successfully drafted a two-piece sleeve pattern. With this skill, you can now create custom garments with tailored sleeves that fit your clients or yourself perfectly. Happy sewing!
